October 25, 2011 Comments Off on DAVID REEVES IS MY CUSTOM TAILOR IN NYC
MR TODD WISEMAN
OCCUPATION: TV AND MEDIA EXECUTIVE
WEARING: 3 PIECE DAVID REEVES CUSTOM SUIT MADE FROM DORMEUIL AMADEUS
October 23, 2011 Comments Off on CUSTOM SUIT PATTERN LOGGING
One of the hallmarks of a Bespoke suit is that a pattern is made for each client to ensure the best fit possible as opposed to made to measure were patterns are adapted. For every level of suit we make both “Bespoke” and “Custom” we make and store patterns for our clients always as standard. We alter the patterns after every fitting so that next time your suit fits perfect with fewer fittings. Here is a quick shot I took last week at the factory. I brought a custom suit back for alteration and pattern logging/adjusting after a first fitting.
October 16, 2011 § 3 Comments
“David Reeves is my custom tailor in NYC” will be an ongoing series. I will be posting photographs of some of my clients actually wearing their David Reeves Custom and Bespoke suits, vest, shirts coats, trousers or whatever else they commission. It should be an interesting project showcasing the diverse clientele of David Reeves. In this first post I am presenting myself, because of course I always wear my own clothes and because I am a clothing enthusiast myself not just a businessman involved with making suits.
OCCUPATION: MENSWEAR TAILORING DESIGNER
WEARING: DAVID REEVES CUSTOM THREE PIECE SUIT IN VINTAGE 1960s 18 OZ TWEED
October 9, 2011 Comments Off on THE LAST PILOT SHIRTS
- Last week we got our sample military shirts for the last pilot label. “The Last Pilot” is a 30s and 40s inspired clothing label that myself, fashion brand strategist Ferdinand Alphen and Cinematographer James Henry are involved with producing. Its a fun project for us and something I have wanted to do for a while which is to produce high quality ready to wear at affordable prices. We hope to have a short run of these shirts available for sale at around $120 each before the end of the year and these will be available for purchase on line.
September 30, 2011 § 2 Comments
I am eagerly awaiting the British film “Tinker tailor soldier spy” being released here in New York. Based on the classic novel of the same name, the international thriller is set during the Cold War years of the 1970s. George Smiley (Gary Oldman), a disgraced British spy, is rehired in secret by his government – which fears that the British Secret Intelligence Service, a.k.a. MI-6 or the “Circus”, has been compromised by a double agent working for the Soviets.
Control, the Circus Chief, assigns the code names “Tinker”, “Tailor”, “Soldier”, “Poorman” and “Beggarman” to various senior intelligence officers under suspicion of being the Soviet mole, with the intention that should an agent called Prideaux uncover information about the identity of the mole he can relay it back using an easy-to-recall code the mole is unaware of. The names are derived from the English children’s rhyme “Tinker Tailor”. In the book and film, “Sailor” is not used as it sounds too much like “Tailor”. So there aren’t in fact any “tailors” in this film but there are some interesting clothes for sure.
Before we go on about the film though its also worth mentioning in addition to the novel this film has some big shoes to fill in regards to the excellent T.V series adaptation from 1974 starring Sir Alec Guiness. If you have the opportunity you should watch this as well but beware its very complicated and makes Inception seem like Police Academy 4.
Jacqueline Durran costume designer for the film deduced that the British Spies would have probably shopped on Jermyn Street, the Burlington Arcade and Savile Row. The clothes in this film are very, very English conservative and rarely indicate the period in which they are set, theres no big flares or wide lapels except in moderation on some of the younger characters. Her thinking was that the characters had bought their suits 10 years ago in a classic style so they were immune to the disco era look. What we see is a rather austere look with very little glamour and this fits the subject rather well. These spies are not about James Bond glamour its about constant paranoia and deception with no means to achieve a final victory. Even so though this austere look can be very stylish because its so genuinely “Anti Fashion”.
Speaking of anti fashion and suits that last 10 years I just got the 16oz heavy weight Lesser book this Morning. I got it from a Russian contact, Code name: Fabric Czar.
Tinker tailor soldier spy is released stateside December 9th.
DAVID REEVES IS PLEASED TO PRESENT H LESSER: “THE” SAVILE ROW CLOTH FOR USE IN HIS BESPOKE AND CUSTOM SUITS IN NYC
September 26, 2011 Comments Off on DAVID REEVES IS PLEASED TO PRESENT H LESSER: “THE” SAVILE ROW CLOTH FOR USE IN HIS BESPOKE AND CUSTOM SUITS IN NYC
H Lesser cloths are distinctly English. Not something you see often in NYC custom tailoring, heavy in weight, dense, easy to tailor and drape, exceptionally durable they are the Savile Row “old guards” favored cloth. H Lesser has been constructing high quality English cloths in the same manner as when they first started doing business in the early 20th century.
To be honest when I was working on Savile row I sort of became bored of its ubiquity. I then and do now generally favor lighter, modern, luxurious cloths by houses like Dormeuil, Zegna and Loro Piana. I always consider David Reeves to be leading edge in terms of knowledge and access to modern cloths even though the construction and style of my suits is rather traditional. The Savile Row idea of a suit lasting 30 years and being built for extreme durability seemed outmoded to me as I believed that the nature of the business had fundamentally changed (even more so) squarely to a luxury one. So my love of beautiful “fashion” fabrics was rather unusual on Savile Row really.
That said you never know what you have until it is lost and Lesser after 100 years of being family owned very nearly disappeared forever in 2010. With less demand for this very traditional, English cloth in heavier weights (13 oz is considered medium weight by Lesser standards) and the economy the way it has been the business unfortunately closed down. English tailors (and quite a lot of Italian tailors) were crestfallen. Fortunately H Lesser was saved by one of their competitors Harrisons, and they are just getting production and distribution back up to speed of this steadfast and high quality English cloth that was just “too heavy to fail”.
Lesser certainly has a heritage, it is certainly a quality cloth just of a different quality with different priorities than the fashion textiles of today. Aside from the durability it evokes a feeling of a time past, of Atlanticists and statesmen from the 1900s up to the modern era of mens clothing in the 60s. The weight, depth of color, drape and conservative nature of these cloths is a look in unto itself and depending on context could be very fashion forward in 2011. What is old is new again and with shows like Boardwalk Empire and Prohibition I think there will be a new appeal for these cloths.
Theres certainly a lot to appreciate about these cloths and there rarity in NYC the U.S.A and the world in general makes them particularly appealing. I am also thinking about winter in NYC and a charcoal suit in an indestructible cloth with a warm heavy weight sounds fantastic.
I currently have the 13 oz “medium weight” book but will be looking to acquire the rather hardcore and niche 16 oz heavy weight suiting book as soon as possible.
If you like heavier weight cloths, these are the ones to go for as they are unarguably the finest of a now rare breed. They will especially be a great complement to my traditionally constructed bespoke suits, which will allow New Yorkers access, right here to an even more traditional Savile Row look.
September 23, 2011 Comments Off on GENIU$ PHONE