May 6, 2011 § 6 Comments

Following on from the post about Madame Paulette were I touched on new innovations in luxury cloth, today I am going to be talking about a very interesting new cloth by Dormeuil called “Jade”.
Bunch # 104  Jade (to be precise) is a super 160s wool sourced from the archipelago of  New Zealand blended with Jade.
Two years ago Marlborough (New Zealand) farmer Richard Bell imagined blending micro particles of jade, or pounamu, into his Haldon Range wool fibre which is grown exclusively to Dormeuil specifications.
He discussed the idea with jade sculptor Ian Boustridge and samples of the stone were sent to Dormeuil in Paris for testing.

Dormeuil select only the most lustrous stones for Jade cloth

“Trials showed that minute jade particles washed into the woven fibre created a finished cloth smoother and softer than any high fashion wool garment made previously,” Richard said.

“Its tactile qualities encouraged Dormeuil to manufacturer a new line of wool-jade cloth and make it available to leading tailors around the world”.

Ian Boustridge, an expert in working with jade, said the fibrous nature of the stone when reduced enables it to lock into wool fibres and gives a distinctive feel to the end product.

“The manufacturing process had to be proven by Dormeuil, but is not surprising given the extremely smooth feel of jade when polished.”

After two years of research the cloth is now manufactured and available in a variety of patterns and colors, although I feel patterns with natural jade shades of green are really the only way to go with this cloth. The samples for Jade are presented not in a book but in a box encased in this rather Indiana Jones looking outer sleeve.

Fortune and Glory indeed.

Jade is so fresh out the blocks that very few suits worldwide have been made but recently John Key the Prime minister of New Zealand wore a suit made from this cloth at the royal wedding of Prince William and Kate Middleton.

John Key (Right) wearing Dormeuil Jade With HRH Prince charles 

What I really like about Dormeuil is the way this 168 year old company still strives to be on the leading edge of luxury. With the economy the way it has been many very good cloth manufacturers have frozen there prices or have indeed dropped them. They have done this by compromising the quality of their cloths and cutting corners. I think Dormeuil quite wisely recognizes that the highest of quality will always be in demand. I admire their creativity and uncompromising approach, which is to produce the most luxurious and unique cloths in the world.

Dormeuil Jade is available for use in David Reeves custom and 6000 stitches suits.



  • Kurt N says:

    Scabal has done cloth with bits of diamond, right? And with bits of lapis lazuli? Would you say that these are all genuinely superior cloths? Or is diamond a gimmick but jade a genuine improvement? I really have no idea–just wondering about the difference between true improvement on the one hand and hype and status on the other.

    • This is certainly a valid question Kurt. The Scabal with Diamonds and the Lapis were produced some time ago and I am familiar these cloths which I also have access to.
      The Diamonds in the Scabal have a tendency to look like stage wear and make for a glittery looking suit. When I was at Scabal I asked who bought this kind of cloth and they said it was worn a lot for stage and evangelical suits. Apart from the sparkle I could not discern what else the stones added to the cloth.

      The difference with Jade is the stones fibrous nature which bonds with the wool. The Jade makes for a very smooth feel to the cloth which is also at the same time quite soft. Dormeuil says it feels like polished Jade, I cant remember the last time I handled polished jade but the surface texture does remind me of very smooth polished stone. The colors are rather complex and deep which react to light in a more subtle and uniform way across the cloth as opposed to the Scabal were the stones “pop” very brightly and look as if there are fragments in the cloth.

      As to if these make superior cloths I would say they just bring a different quality and I think a lot depends on personal preference and context. Both the Scabal and Dormeuil wools used in the “stone cloths” are excellent in there own right before they are treated.

  • Stephen says:

    Fascinating, and perfect for the growing Chinese luxury market! Here is a link to a Wiki article on ancient Chinese jade burial suits. These guys were stylin’ it 1200 years ago!

    • The Jade burial suits are very interesting. I don’t think this is quite what Dormeuil had in mind, but I think they had the Chinese market in mind for sure when they developed “Jade”. Dormeuil’s strongest business is in Europe but Asia is not at all far behind and is a close second (I believe they are “big in Japan” especially).

  • Kurt N says:

    David, thanks for the further details on the Dormeuil and Scabal cloths. I guess “stage and evangelical suits” means suits for stage drama or for wear by television evangelists. I wish I found it impossible to believe that a TV evangelist would wear a diamond-impregnated suit. Sadly, I don’t.

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