CUSTOM SHIRTS PART 2
April 22, 2011 Comments Off on CUSTOM SHIRTS PART 2
Welcome to custom shirts part 2. Today I am going to be posting about some of the detailing that goes into my shirts. For this purpose I have chosen to photograph a rather loud Tartan check (Buchanan) from Acorn’s range.
David Reeves shirts come as standard with hand gathered cuffs as opposed to simple pleats. Hand gathered cuffs are more labour intensive to produce and no two are alike. For the client they are easier to iron and are a subtle indicator of luxury and style. All shirt buttons are mother of pearl in this case they are “smoked” to better compliment the shirt.
We use single edge stitching on cuffs collars and plackets. Stylistically more minimal yet robust looking, edge stitching takes more time and skill to execute. Shirts are sewn with intelligently matched all cotton thread.
Bias cut split back yokes are a standard feature. In production every seam costs time and money as does fabric. Most shirts these days do without the split back yoke because of the extra costs involved with “wastage” of fabric particularly in matching plaids and the actual difficulty of the matching. I favor the split back yoke because of the added movement the bias cut cloth affords the wearer and because it is a signifier of a luxury shirt.
There are no minimum orders with David Reeves shirts however it does take around 6 weeks to make a shirt and for it to arrive in NYC from Manchester so like a lot of custom ordering some forward planning is useful. For a first order one sample shirt is made before the rest of the order are put in make. This is to ensure the client is perfectly happy with the shirt.
These shirts were delivered today and include orders for several clients. Highlights include a Dinner shirt (Front and centre) with a Pale blue body and traditional white Marcella bib, collar and cuffs. A Beautiful lilac shirt (front left) made from Loro Piana cotton and a semi casual shirt (front right) with provision for a collar bar.
Each shirt has its own pattern made and stored individually. This is a true Bespoke shirt with details limited only to the imagination or the desire of the client.
Tune in on Monday to check out pictures of the completed quilted coat I have been working on.