DORMEUIL TONIK MOHAIR
March 26, 2011 § 2 Comments
Regular clients of mine will be aware of my love of Mohair cloth, its that modernist in me that never goes away I think. There are many fine ultra luxury cloths on the market such as Guanashina, super 200s or even cloths with diamond fragments and gold thread. In my opinion Dormeuil Tonik Mohair is my favorite in this premier division. Dormeuil has been producing “Tonik” since 1958 it was perhaps at its most popular in the 60s were it was worn and coveted by lounge singers like Dino and Frank as well as Teddy boys and Mods (see Stings suit in Quadrophenia). The word Tonik suit is now used to describe any suit with a sheen, this cloth is the originator of that term.
I have owned many Mohair suits over the years but I finally made myself the difinitive article in the Ultimate Mohair cloth. I can tell you the cloth is a dream to wear, its drape is fantastic and it keeps its shape very well. I opted to go for a midnight blue so the sheen on this isn’t as two tone as it is on other colors in this line, nonetheless in person it possesses a beautiful subtle irridesence of deep navy and a slight peacock blue. A truly glamorous cloth it has a slightly coarse but incredibly dense weave, in a good way I feel like I am armored wearing it. The inspiration for the styling of the suit was Michael Cain’s suit in Get Carter which was made by legendary tailor Douglas Hayward.
The suit was made using my standard “custom make” which features a full floating canvas, hand stitched working buttonholes, edge stitching and a raw try on. All union made in the U.S.A