September 28, 2014 Comments Off
As many of my regular clients know I am a huge tweed fan, but not “that kind” of tweed fan, you will not see me sporting a handlebar moustache and wheeling through Bushwick on a “Penny Farthing”.
No, I am a fan not for nostalgia but for its real relevance today. More and more we are working out of site of our clients and our peers, most of us do not need to wear “Goldman Sachs approved business wear” on a daily basis. A tweed sport coat is such an extremely useful garment and a real wise investment piece for any man (or woman) especially in NYC.
Paired with say some APC jeans, a shirt and some smarter shoes you have an easy and very cool urban look……yes urban. A tweed jacket is not just for grouse hunting its also great because unlike that lovely silk jacket you don’t need to worry about putting the sleeves on a cocktail bar. You can throw that tweed jacket around and lie on it during a transatlantic flight and it will only add more character. You can wear tweed with stubble and a beard or you can clean yourself up and smarten that jacket up with some nice trousers and a tie. Really a tweed jacket is a staple piece that after a while becomes an old friend.
Practicality aside Tweed is also very fashionable right now and being a leading edge maker I was very excited to recently start working with a small “artisnal” mill in Donegal Ireland called Molloy and Sons. Check out this short video about them:
Very, very cool, everyone in the industry is excited about these guys. Ralph Lauren will be working with them in 2015 and my friend Michael from Drakes nearly spat out his G&T with excitement when I told him I was making up their cloths.
So Molloy and Sons is the new hip kid on the block, but aside from them I also have my usual wide range of very traditional offerings from Wbill and Porter and Harding that have enduring quality and look great made up in one of my timelessly sharp cuts.
Here are some tweeds I have turned out so far this fall.
March 10, 2014 Comments Off
Mike Maroney’s recent article for “life, tailored”, featuring thoughts and photographs from David Reeves:
Men’s clothing should not be ill fitting, plain and simple. Baggy clothes are for children to grow into, not men who have already grown. If you are reading this odds are you aren’t a child anymore and it’s time to learn how to find a tailor. But we don’t want to send you in the wrong direction, we don’t want to leave you feeling that any old guy with a pair of scissors and a sewing kit is going to be a great choice. We are here to help you find the right tailor for you, so you can walk away knowing you look nothing short of dapper.
The Bespoke Suit
There are more to tailors than quick alterations and hems. The one thing every self-respecting adult male needs is one good, and we mean really good suit. To do this, you want to skip the lines at Bloomingdales and head somewhere you can get that personal touch. You want something that is going to be built just for you, and you want it done by someone who knows what they’re doing. We’re talking about getting a bespoke suit.
To find out what to really look for when you’re ready for your first bespoke suit we talked with modern English tailor and NYC bespoke suit maker, David Reeves.
Check Out The Shop…
According to Reeves, the first thing you want to look for when deciding on the right man for the job is the quality of what they produce. This seems so simple, but it is incredibly important. Check out what they are wearing, go to their shop and see what they are working on, check out their online presence.
Something this small and easy can be a great window into the world of a tailor and can give you an excellent depiction of what their final product looks like. If the tailor’s personal clothes look outdated or poorly done, David points out you really have to ask yourself “why?”, these men should be the forefront of personal style and fit. If they don’t care enough to dress themselves well, that can be a sign of lack of care, and at the very least, not paying attention to detail.
Reeves also points out a good tailor should have work on the rails in the shop. They should be showcasing things and be able to show you what they are currently working on, if they can’t do this it’s a huge red flag.
Likewise, if they are only working on alterations, and have very few or no suits they can show you then the odds are they don’t make many. Find someone who builds their business around constructing bespoke suits, not simply making alterations.
The Importance of The Internet…
As we know here at Life, Tailored, the internet is becoming more and more important by the day. This is no different in the sartorial world. Someone without an online presence should scare you away. Of course they don’t have to be a tech guru (personally, I’d prefer they know a lot more about clothing than the IT world) but they should be regularly showing work and you should be able to find reviews.
Reeves admitted he may not be the best on building websites and all that comes with it, but he points out that you can see reviews on yelp (to which they are all perfect, click here and read them for yourself.) And he is posting on Instagram everyday so you can check out the pieces he’s working on. Click here to check out David’s Instagram.
Precision of the hands and work aside, you also want to find someone who knows how to run a proper business. How quickly will they respond to your emails? Will they refund you if something goes wrong? Are they willing to work at something to correct it if you are unhappy?
These are things you should do your best to know before you start the process with the tailor. Good judgement can go a long way, and having someone you trust and is willing to work with you can save you huge headaches in the long run.
When It’s Time To Let Them Do Their Jobs…
My biggest question for David was “How much detail should you give a tailor when instructing what you want?”… I learned a few things.
David’s suggestion: “Just because you can do whatever you like, doesn’t mean you necessarily should.”
Wise words from a wise man.
Don’t be a micromanaging client, it can ruin a great experience for everyone. If you trust your tailor (which if you took our suggestions you should) then know that he is probably on the same page as you. If you really trust him, sit back and let him work his magic. Reeves said the clients who are the most fun and end up the happiest with the experience are the ones who take this approach, and trust in his decision making.
Of course this is typically a two-way street. Tell them what you want without being overbearing, as David pointed out to me, a professional should be able to take you through the process in an easy an efficient manner and will prompt you and ask questions to ensure they make the best garment they can for you.
Want a bespoke suit from David Reeves? Check out David’s work by clicking here, and head over to his showroom at:
41 Union Square West
New York, NY
February 27, 2014 Comments Off
February 5, 2014 Comments Off
This Spring/Summer my offerings have a distinctly late 70s early 80s theme, influences include Scarface and new wave with particular nods to bands like Roxy Music and the Jam. Solid satin ties in a vibrant, modern color palette punctuate light weight and glamorous summer suits.
These ties and more are available in store now and soon through the upcoming online store.
January 7, 2014 Comments Off
I will be staying at the Sheraton hotel from Monday the 13th- Tuesday the 14th. If anyone would like to set up an appointment let me know ASAP as obviously my time in the city will be limited. I will be coming back for at least one fitting and there is also the option of shipping garments or doing fittings in NYC.